Textile materials



Patented July 9, 1935 museu -e .v Q .2' 7,1s2

TEXTILEMA ERIALS r g I William Alexander Dickie, Spondon, near Derby,EnglamL'assignor to Celanese Corporation of America, a corporation ofDelaware Y Nollrawinga .ApplicationOctober 24, 1930, Serial N0.491,070,;111 Great Britain November 13,

13' Claims.

This invention relates to the manufacture of textile fabrics an'dtextileyarns suitable for in-' corporating therein, and is more particularlyconcerned with the production of fabrics exhibiting crepe effects. j g

Textile materials exhibiting crepe effectshave long been obtained byemploying in their construction highly twisted yarns (hereinafterreferred to as crepe yarns or crepe threads) made of natural silk in thegummed state, the crepe e ffects'appearing whenthe fabrics aresubsequently subjected to. a suitable scouring or like treatment forthepurpose of removing the gum. Crepe effects are, however, onlyobtained with difficulty by theiem-. ployment of highly twisted crepethreads made of certain other materials, especially degummed silk andartificial fibres. i i v 1 I have now found that; in the production oftex tile fabrics exhibiting crepe effects, improved result are obtainedby subjecting fabrics containing highly twisted crepe threads coated,impregnated, or similarly treated with a material capable of 7 beingswelled, to a treatment adapted to swell the coatingmaterial withoutrendering it relatively soft or yielding. I Threads to be used as crepethreads may-be coated, impregnated, or similarly treated, preferablyprior to twisting, with a ma-- posited-on the threadbythe saidoperationbeing terialwhich is capable of being caused to swell, and,*afterweaving the said threads into fabrics, the coating or impregnatingmaterials may be swelled. The operation of coating,- impregnating orsimilarly treating the thread is hereinafter referred to as a coatingoperation, the material desimilarly described as a coating. Thus-forexample a textile yarn may becoated or impregnated with casein by anyconvenient process, twistedto the necessary high degree, woven into afabric with orwithout other yarns, and the fabric subjected to treatmentwith water or' otherv aqueous liquid so as to cause the casein coatingsor deposits to swell. In this manner it has been found possible not onlyto-obtain crepe effects more easily when using for crepe threads thetextile yarns hitherto employed for this purpose, but also to obtaincrpeeffects when using for crepe threads textile yarns which could notbe applied for this purpose hitherto. I a It appears that when thecoating or impregnating material of the highly twisted crepe threadsswells while remaining relatively firm, i. e. while not becoming'undulysoft or yielding, the crepe threads shrink in length and give riseto-crpe I effects in the fabrics.

may be caused toswell-after the said threads have been twisted andincorporated into'fabricsj The.

coating or impregnating material -sho'uld, however, be capable ofswelling'without becoming coneverted into a very softfor yieldingform; IParticularlysatisfactory, resultsj'ma'ybe obtained when coatings ordeposits; of casein, are P employed though other albuminous materials,for example egg albumen, and substances of other classes, for examplerubber or rubber. latex or algin may be used if desired. Coatings'ordeposits of these rnaterials, especially of casein, may be caused toswell,

by means of an aqueous treatment, without becoming undesirably yieldingarson. 1 l

Various means maybemtilized forjthe coating or impregnation of the crepethreads with casein orother albumen, rubber latex-, -,algin, or thelike.

Very conveniently however the-'said{-coating or materialsare apedjtojthethreads ,j-i

impregnatin preferably whilethe'lattera untwistedor only slightlytwisted, inthe former-aqueous or other advantage be sub tioneitherbeforeo ing. Such dehydration ay jbeacomp shed for .instance bydryin :ina current ,of'warmior o air or by treating thetwistedor-untwi'sted repe threads,- or the fabricswith ,liquids' capable offabstracting water fromthe coatings or deposits, for example strongalcohol or a concentrated solution of calcium chloride.

The subsequent treatment of thematerials for the purpose of swelling thecoating or impreg-' nating materials of the crepe threads may be ac-'complished'in any convenient" manner. Itis essential however that themethod utilized be such solutions or,dispersions,,the solvent or othervehicle being subsequently. removed-by subjecting ,woll mby 'ew 0 I' theaqueousliquid, he coating bath, for example a dilute solution of soapsuch as is commonly employed for the scouring of textile materials.Where the degree of swelling thus attained is insumcient the conditionsof treatment may be modified; for example higher temperatures may beemployed or substances facilitating the swelling may be added to thetreating bath e. g. benzene or other aromatic hydrocarbons may be addedin the case of coatings of rubber latex.

On the other hand, where a simple aqueous bath causes the coating orimpregnating materials of the crepe threads to become unduly soft oryielding, the bath may be modified so as to restrain the swellingaction. For example, in the case of coatings of gelatine or likealbumens an aqueous swelling bath may receive an addition of alcohol orof a salt or other material which diminishes the swelling action of thewater.

Another method of effecting a regulated degree of swelling is to applythe swelling agent in restricted quantity e. g. in the form of vapour.For example the fabrics containing the coated or impregnated crepethreads may be subjected to the action of moist air until the requisitedegree of swelling of the coatings has taken place.

In'like manner when, as in the case for example of coatings of rubber,organic swelling agents e. g. benzene are used the action thereof may bediminished if necessary by an admixture of inert diluent, e. g. lowerparaflin hydrocarbons. It is most convenient to be able to employ thesame type of liquid, usually aqueous, both for the application of thecoating materials and for the swelling of the same after fabricformation. To this end the coatings or deposits applied from solutionsor dispersions in a liquid e. g. water, may be so treated by physical,chemical or other means that on treatment with the same liquid swellingand no immediate solution or substantial softening takes place.

Thus for example the crepe threads may be coated'or impregnated with asolution ofcasein in water containing an alkali and then treated with anacid, or with a salt of a heavy metal or of calcium or other alkalineearth metal, whereby the casein becomes converted into an insoluble ordifllcultly soluble form which, after drying, swells when treated withwater but does not dissolve or become very soft or yielding. Again wherecasein is applied in the form of an aqueous ammoniacal solution simpledrying is usually sufllcient to effect removal of ammonia and leave adeposit or coating of casein capable of swelling in water in the desiredmanner. Coatings of casein or other albuminous materials may also betreated with formaldehyde or tannic acid in order to reduce theirtendency to become unduly soft or yielding in water. The yarns may forinstance be passed through an ammoniacal solution of casein and thenthrough formaldehyde solution. In some cases the agents adapted'tomodify the coatings may be applied in admixture with the coatingmaterials. Thus an ammoniacal solution of casein containing formaldehydemay be applied to the yarns or threads, a subsequent drying serving tofix a difflcultly soluble casein compound thereon. Again some materials,for example rubber latex, may be applied as aqueous dispersions and thelatter converted on thethreads into the desired coatings or deposits,capable of being swollen by water, by drying or other treatment adaptedto effect coagulation of the dispersion.

As stated above casein has been found particularly suitable for thecoating or impregnation of crepe threads in accordance with theinvention. Casein may for instance, readily be dissolved or dispersed inwater with the aid of an alkali such as borax, caustic soda, or ammonia.Such solutions or dispersions applied to textile yarns leave, on simpledrying in the caseof ammoniacal solutions, and drying and acidifying inthe case of some other alkaline solutions, deposits or coatings whichswell on treatment with suitable aqueous baths without becoming verysoft or yielding. A yarn, of cellulose acetate or other fibres, preparedwith casein in the aforesaid manner and then given a high degree oftwist, e. g. 60-80 turns per inch, shrinks considerably when immersed inan aqueous bath, and the yarns are eminently suitable for the productionof fabrics exhibiting crpe effects. For example the crping of fabricsincorporating the said yarns may be readily effected, that is to say thefabrics may be caused to exhibit crepe effects, by treatment in asuitable aqueous bath.

It will be appreciated that any treatment applied, whether for thepurpose of applying, modifying, or swelling the coatings or deposits ofthe crepe threads should not be such as to affect prejudicially theproperties of the filaments composing the crepe threads.

The solutions or dispersions of casein, algin, rubber latex, or the likeemployed for coating or impregnating crepe threads in accordance withthe invention may contain, in addition to dissolving or dispersingagents where these are employed, other substances capable of modifyingthe character of the coatings. Thus, for example, in some cases it hasbeen found advantageous to add to the solutions or dispersions softeningagents, e. g. glycerine, or lubricating agents, e. g. oils or soaps forinstance sodium stearate. Where crepe threads are to be prepared fromyarns made of or containing cellulose acetate or other cellulose esters,it has been found advantageous to apply the coating or impregnatingmaterial from solutions or dispersions which are alkaline but notstrongly alkaline. For example the solutions or dispersions may berendered alkaline with an aliphatic amine.

The following are examples of coating solutions which may be used forpreparing the crepe threads in accordance with the invention, thevarious quantities being expressed in parts by weight.

V I Parts (1) Casein 8 Ammonia 880 4 Water 96 (2)- Casein 4 Dextrin 4Ammonia 2 -Water 98 (3) Egg albumen 2 Water 4 Glycerine 1 (4) Gelatine10 Casein 20 Water 400 Caustic soda 1 Sodium stearate 2 The applicationof solutions or dispersions of casein or the like to the crepe threadsmay be effected in any desired or convenient manner, for example, by anyof the known methods used in solutions ordispersions, or thev threadsmay be passed continuously through the solutions or dispersions, thenthrough a suitable drying device, and thenjto a winding and twistingapparatus where the high degree of twist necessary incrpe threadsmaybe'applied- Again the yarn may be wound unsuitable bobbins, thelatter placed in closed containers, and the coating or impregnatingsolution introducedafter evacuating the conhaving a left hand twistand crepe threads having a right hand twist and prepared in accordancewith my invention. The threads having right hand twist and thosehaving'left' hand twist may be incorporated inv any convenient manner,for example pairs of weft threads of right hand twist may alternate withpairs of threads of left hand twist. 4

The invention is applicable to the production of textile fabrics havingcrepe threads of any desired textile materials and is particularlyaptainers. The yarn may thenbedried while wind-pp'licable to theproduction of fabrics from crepe ing off onto other bobbins or packages.

In the case of artificial threads the treatment with the solutions ordispersions may take place continuously with their production; .forexample a bundle. of filaments. of cellulose acetate issuing from a dryspinning apparatusmay be passed directly through a bath or'through orover another suitable application device supplied with one of theaforesaid solutions or dispersions.

The application of the casein, algin or like material to the yarns to beused as crepe threads is preferably effected in such a manner that theindividual filaments constituting the said yarns are effectively coated.The application is in. consequence preferably effected while the yarnsare in the untwisted or only slightly twisted state.

The after-treatment applied to the fabrics for the purpose of causingthe coatings'of the crepe threads to swell and crping of the fabrics tooccur may, as indicated previously, vary according to the nature of thesaid coatings. Thus, for example, it may comprise a simple treatmentwith water with or without addition of substances adapted to vary theswelling action of the bath, for instance soap, alkali metal salts, e.g. sodium 'chloride, or acids, e. g. hydrochloric acid. If

desired the swelling treatment may be combined with another subsequenttreatment, for example the removal of the coating materials or dyeing.

After crping has been effected the coatings or deposits on the crpethreads may be removed in any convenient manner, for example, where thecoating is of casein, by scouring in a bath containing alkali or soap. i

If desired the removal of the coatings or deposits may be effected inthe same bath as the swelling by a suitable adjustment of thecomposition, temperature, etc-of the bath. Thus, for example, wovenmaterial containing crepe threads coated with casein may beentered intoan alkali or soap bath of such concentration and temperature that thecoatings become swollen but not immediately removed. As soon as thecoatings have become swollen to the degree required to cause the desiredcrping of the fabric to occur, the concentration and/or temperature ofthe bath maybe increased for the purpose of removing the coating.

The degree of twist imparted to the yarns or threads serving to give thecrepe effect may be similar to that commonly employed in the productionof crpe threads from silk in the gummed state, but any other suitabledegree of twist, whether higher or lower, may be employed according tothe effects it is desired to produce.

The crepe threads produced in accordance with the invention may beincorporated into fabrics in any desired manner, for example the weftalone may be wholly on partially composed of such threads, or the warpmay also contain them. In general it is found convenient to employthreads of relatively low twist in the warp and to employ as the weftboth crepe threads threads made of degummed silk or made of yarnsconsisting of or containing artificial filaments of for. example,regenerated cellulose or cellulose esters or cellulose ethers. Examplesof such cellulose esters are cellulose formate. acetate, propionate andbutyrate, and among the ethers may be mentioned ethyl, methyl, andbenzyl cellulose and the analogous condensation products of celluloseand glycols or polyhydric alcohols.

What I claim and desire to secureby Letters Patent is:--

1. The process of producing textile fabrics exhibiting crepe effectswhich comprises coating threads with an albuminous material dispersiblein water, modifying the coating so as to render it capable of beingswelled by water without becoming relatively yielding, twisting thethreads to a high degree, incorporating'in fabrics the highly twistedcrepe threads so produced, and then subjecting thesaid fabrics to anaqueous treatment.

2. The process of producing textile fabrics exhibiting crepe effectswhich comprises coating threads with an albuminous material dispersiblein water, subjecting the coated threads to the action of formaldehyde,twisting the threads to a high degree, incorporating in fabrics thehighly twisted crepe threads so produced, and then subjecting the saidfabrics to an aqueous treatment.

, 3. The process of producing textile fabrics exhibiting crepe effectswhich comprises coating threads of cellulose acetate with an alkalicasein compound, liberating casein therefrom on the threads, twistingthethreads to a high degree, incorporating in fabrics the highly twistedcrepe threads so produced, and then subjecting the said fabrics to anaqueous treatment.

4. The process of producing textile fabrics exhibiting crepe effectswhich comprises coating threads of cellulose acetate with an albuminousmaterial dispersible in water, subjecting the coated threads to theaction of formaldehyde, twisting the threads to a high degree,incorporating in fabrics the highly twisted crepe threads so produced,and then subjecting the said fabrics to an aqueous treatment.

5. The process of producing textile fabrics exhibiting crepe effectswhich comprises coating threads of cellulose acetate withgelatin,subjecting the threads to the actionof formaldehyde, twisting thethreads to a high degree, incorporating in fabrics the highly twistedcrepe threads so produced, and then subjecting the said fabrics to anaqueous treatment.

6. The process of producing textile fabrics exhibiting crepe effectswhich comprises coating threads of cellulose acetate with an albuminousmaterial disperisble in water, twisting the threads to a high degree,incorporating in fabrics the highly twisted crepe threads soproduced,and then subjecting the said fabrics to the action of anaqueous salt solution. H V

7. Highly twisted crepe threads of cellulose acetate impregnated with acompound of an albuminous material and formaldehyde adapted to swell inwater without becoming relatively yielding.

8. The process of producing textile fabrics exhibiting crepe effects,which comprises providing threads with a coating of a normallywater-dispersible sizing agent modified to render it capable of beingswelled by water without becoming relatively yielding, twisting thethreads to a high degree, incorporating in fabrics the highly twistedcrepe threads so produced and then subjecting the said fabrics to anaqueous treatment.

9. The process of producing textile fabrics exhibiting crepe eii'ects,which comprises coating threads with a water-soluble compound of caseinwith a base, liberating casein therefrom on the threads, twisting thethreads to a high degree, incorporating in fabrics the highly twistedcrepe threads so produced, and then subjecting the said fabrics to anaqueous treatment.

ace-Lisa 10. The'process of producing textile fabrics exhibiting crepeeffects, which comprises coating threads of cellulose acetate with analkali casein- 13. Highly twisted cellulose l acetate crepe,

threads of which the-indiyidualfilam'ents are coated with a compound ofan albuminous rml-' terial and formaldehyde.

WILLIAM ALEXANDER mom.

